Sunday, February 27, 2011
7.2 Waves
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| In the open ocean, waves cause objects to move in a vertical motion only. when waves reach the shore they break, causing them to release their engery. |
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| These are the three main types of waves |
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| This is the formation of waves in the open ocean, eventually a swell forms and the further the swell travels the more likely the waves are to form what is called a ground swell. |
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| Waves break on the shoreline in the surf and swash zones |
Science of Waves
1. A wave is a disturbamce which is caused by a force of energy which travels through a medium from one location to another, which in surf waves it gathers water as it goes. Behind the wave it falls and rises again a couple times which is why you get more than one ripple from a stone falling into a pond.
2. Before surfing, a surfer should know how weather conditions affect types of waves, this knowledge should be able to allow the surfer to make a conscious decision about whether they are going to go out. they should be able to spot dangerous zones or areas in the water, caused by bad weather.
Video :
1. Waves are formed by the wind. The wind pushes the water around, eventually creating higher and higher tides, which eventually form waves, which are all caused by the power of the wind pushing and pulling on the water it flows over. The waves in the video are normally spilling waves that are breaking over the reef.
2. Waves can be formed in three ways, gravity, wind and earthquakes. Gravity is responsible for the high and low tides. High tide is when the water is the deepest and low tide is when the water is at a shallow point. The rise and fall of the water level causes waves to form. Waves are measured from the back of the wave, this is because waves seem a lot bigger than what they end up being recorded.
3. Maverick waves are special because they are formed because of a really rocky reef that causes the waves to rise exceptionally fast, also the position of the headland causes the waves to converge, resulting in very large swells which are prime spots for big wave surfers.
2. Before surfing, a surfer should know how weather conditions affect types of waves, this knowledge should be able to allow the surfer to make a conscious decision about whether they are going to go out. they should be able to spot dangerous zones or areas in the water, caused by bad weather.
Video :
1. Waves are formed by the wind. The wind pushes the water around, eventually creating higher and higher tides, which eventually form waves, which are all caused by the power of the wind pushing and pulling on the water it flows over. The waves in the video are normally spilling waves that are breaking over the reef.
2. Waves can be formed in three ways, gravity, wind and earthquakes. Gravity is responsible for the high and low tides. High tide is when the water is the deepest and low tide is when the water is at a shallow point. The rise and fall of the water level causes waves to form. Waves are measured from the back of the wave, this is because waves seem a lot bigger than what they end up being recorded.
3. Maverick waves are special because they are formed because of a really rocky reef that causes the waves to rise exceptionally fast, also the position of the headland causes the waves to converge, resulting in very large swells which are prime spots for big wave surfers.
4. Energy is created when a high pressure system joins with a low pressure system, this energy is transferred then through the water and when it comes into contact with a reef, all of the energy from the joining is shot upwards which causes large to huge waves.
5. The big wave surfers give advice such as 'respecting the wave' and also ways in which to escape the lip of a large wave, because otherwise that person could get hurt very badly, with the possibility of death.
Tweeds River Entrance.
1. It became hazardous to ships because of the sandbars that were forming across the river mouth, the solution to this problem was to construct breakwaters to stabilise the river entrance and help keep it clear of sand.
2. that the sand would not be able to move up and down the beach, which stops the beach from replenishing itself with new sands and etc
3. the area became unsafe for shipping because of the slow build up of sand which eventually formed large sand banks and therefore making the waters shallower. this forms a problem for shipping because the risk of getting stuck or damage to the ship.
4. it was expensive solution and would need to occur frequently in order to maintain the sand supply to the beaches and the safety of the river entrance for boats.
5. Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project: must remain navigable and that sand be delivered to the beaches of the Gold Coast in the quantities requested by the NSW and Queensland governments
6. i believe that the TRESBP is one of the most succesful coastal management stratagies implemented in Australia because it re-creates the natural process of longshore drift. the beaches of the area are monitored in order to determine which beach will supplied with sand from the pumping scheme, it has ensured that a continual supply of sand to the beaches of Southern Gold Coast and solved the problem of the Tweed River silting up.
7.
8. as seen in the 1962 photo the beach is small, the waves aren't hitting the beach where they should and isn't appealing at all. but as the project is started and is getting put into action the beach is being transformed. it is gradually getting wider, the waves are now almost parallel to the shore.
9.
2. that the sand would not be able to move up and down the beach, which stops the beach from replenishing itself with new sands and etc
3. the area became unsafe for shipping because of the slow build up of sand which eventually formed large sand banks and therefore making the waters shallower. this forms a problem for shipping because the risk of getting stuck or damage to the ship.
4. it was expensive solution and would need to occur frequently in order to maintain the sand supply to the beaches and the safety of the river entrance for boats.
5. Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project: must remain navigable and that sand be delivered to the beaches of the Gold Coast in the quantities requested by the NSW and Queensland governments
6. i believe that the TRESBP is one of the most succesful coastal management stratagies implemented in Australia because it re-creates the natural process of longshore drift. the beaches of the area are monitored in order to determine which beach will supplied with sand from the pumping scheme, it has ensured that a continual supply of sand to the beaches of Southern Gold Coast and solved the problem of the Tweed River silting up.
7.
8. as seen in the 1962 photo the beach is small, the waves aren't hitting the beach where they should and isn't appealing at all. but as the project is started and is getting put into action the beach is being transformed. it is gradually getting wider, the waves are now almost parallel to the shore.
9.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
7.1 Geographical issues
1. 1. The settlement pattern of Australia is related to the issues in the coastal environment because 85 percent of the Australian Population lives within 50km of the coast, this means that we need to be aware of the impacts that we are having on the coastal environment.
2. 2. The sustainability of the coastline is the aim of the coastal management strategies, because with vast amounts of people living near the coast, sustainability is the key factor that management strategies should be focusing on.
3. 3. "Sea Change" is an Australian trend for people to move from large cities to smaller coastal towns and villages where life style is more relaxed.
4. 4. Residential caps and population ceiling have been brought in to control to stop overdevelopment of the area.
5. 5. Pollution: People dumping and leaving rubbish. Tourism and Recreational Pressures: During popular holiday times, the vast amount of people in seaside areas can place pressure on infrastructure and the environment. Introduced Plants: The weed like plants affects the natural landscape and could bring disease into the area, but also overrun the native plants in the within the area. Inappropriate Development: This could affect the overall stability of the coastal environment, due to the constant developments of ever increasing population increase
6. 6. Geographers play a key role in development strategies because they not only control the commercial and tourist activities within the area but also determine where the best place would be to employ these strategies in relation to geographical position.
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