1. A wave is a disturbamce which is caused by a force of energy which travels through a medium from one location to another, which in surf waves it gathers water as it goes. Behind the wave it falls and rises again a couple times which is why you get more than one ripple from a stone falling into a pond.
2. Before surfing, a surfer should know how weather conditions affect types of waves, this knowledge should be able to allow the surfer to make a conscious decision about whether they are going to go out. they should be able to spot dangerous zones or areas in the water, caused by bad weather.
Video :
1. Waves are formed by the wind. The wind pushes the water around, eventually creating higher and higher tides, which eventually form waves, which are all caused by the power of the wind pushing and pulling on the water it flows over. The waves in the video are normally spilling waves that are breaking over the reef.
2. Waves can be formed in three ways, gravity, wind and earthquakes. Gravity is responsible for the high and low tides. High tide is when the water is the deepest and low tide is when the water is at a shallow point. The rise and fall of the water level causes waves to form. Waves are measured from the back of the wave, this is because waves seem a lot bigger than what they end up being recorded.
3. Maverick waves are special because they are formed because of a really rocky reef that causes the waves to rise exceptionally fast, also the position of the headland causes the waves to converge, resulting in very large swells which are prime spots for big wave surfers.
2. Before surfing, a surfer should know how weather conditions affect types of waves, this knowledge should be able to allow the surfer to make a conscious decision about whether they are going to go out. they should be able to spot dangerous zones or areas in the water, caused by bad weather.
Video :
1. Waves are formed by the wind. The wind pushes the water around, eventually creating higher and higher tides, which eventually form waves, which are all caused by the power of the wind pushing and pulling on the water it flows over. The waves in the video are normally spilling waves that are breaking over the reef.
2. Waves can be formed in three ways, gravity, wind and earthquakes. Gravity is responsible for the high and low tides. High tide is when the water is the deepest and low tide is when the water is at a shallow point. The rise and fall of the water level causes waves to form. Waves are measured from the back of the wave, this is because waves seem a lot bigger than what they end up being recorded.
3. Maverick waves are special because they are formed because of a really rocky reef that causes the waves to rise exceptionally fast, also the position of the headland causes the waves to converge, resulting in very large swells which are prime spots for big wave surfers.
4. Energy is created when a high pressure system joins with a low pressure system, this energy is transferred then through the water and when it comes into contact with a reef, all of the energy from the joining is shot upwards which causes large to huge waves.
5. The big wave surfers give advice such as 'respecting the wave' and also ways in which to escape the lip of a large wave, because otherwise that person could get hurt very badly, with the possibility of death.
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